Best double length sling anchor reddit. 305 votes, 96 comments.

Best double length sling anchor reddit Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. If double strand 5mm is about as strong as single strand 7mm, and it only requires twice the length of cord. P. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Posted by u/richard_briggs7 - 4 votes and 10 comments two triple length slings with a locker on them. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Know and understand what you're trying to accomplish instead. On the up, it can be used to extend. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. Generally if they look bad, they are bad. A. 93. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. a. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. Sling with sliding-X: no redundancy to gain pointless equalization on two bomber bolts. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Mar 31, 2016 · Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. It's definitely arguable how much time it actually saves. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a minute. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. At least 3x 2ft and 3x 4ft. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. If you clip both strands, the webbing could fail in one place outside the limiter knots and the whole anchor would fail. Imposible to know if you found the best location for the anchor because we cant see anywhere else so maybe you chose the best spot but like its been said try to avoid relying on a single block. BD Positron Lockers on one QD + BD Positron non-lockers on other) For bolted anchors that are still close, but too far apart for QD's: Double-length (120cm) sewn nylon sling plus four (4) BD Positron locking carabiners (one for each bolt, plus two for masterpoint). I bought two different length of QuickDraw when I got started because I thought that was better. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. ~20ft of nylon 7-8mm cord, tied into a loop with double fisherman's knot. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. you don't need a PAS to anchor yourself to something. -Prussik cord with a locker. Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments But it certainly does not conform to best practices. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. Mar 3, 2020 · For closely-bolted anchors: Locking Quickdraw + Normal Quickdraw (i. its nice to be able to clearly weight your atc and observe your personal anchor being slack The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). Regardless of the few extra seconds it takes. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they Aug 18, 2019 · Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not use a personal anchor system instead. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Nylon slings do degrade with time and moreso with sun exposure. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. Weight of cord should scale with cross-section so since 2*5 2 ~ 7 2 it would depend on how efficient each configuration is and how much thinner the double strand version can be. 20Kn dyneema sewn slings. Posted by u/richard_briggs7 - 4 votes and 10 comments Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. Oct 22, 2017 · Evolve your thinking past what is "best" or "best practice". Use best judgement and get new slings for about 8 bucks each if youre not confident in them. Oct 5, 2017 · My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. And have never once selected one to put on a bolt because it was 2” longer or shorter. Nwslackline. Two bomber bolts: they're redundant. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. 5 grams. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. Wider slings (3/4” or 1”) are generally more durable. Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. Reply reply I girth a double length sling or two to my harness and tie an overhang 1/3 of the way up, then I can navigate rappels super safely and dont have to bring any extra gear. e. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. IF you climb above your anchor while attached to the anchor via your PAS and you fall, that is a fall factor greater than 1, possibly up to 2, depending on how far above the anchor you climb relative to the length of your PAS. Eli gave you two options. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. S. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. Since I guess you can use thinner cord for double. I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Clove hitch into locker and on the non weighted rope strand I tie a figure 8 on a bight for redundancy/backup If I clipped the rope directly to all my pro, I'd probably carry one double-length sling for a sliding X, and use cord for everything else. -quad length sling. A double length sling is also useful for aiding through hard cruxes if you don't want to bail. I dont find myself wanting to shorten the personal anchor length past that. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. Apr 12, 2019 · This sling comes in four different lengths, and while we tested the double-length (60cm) version, which is ideal for use on lead to extend protection pieces, either the 120cm or 240cm versions would be solid choices for use in anchor building. Cord makes a better prussik, and emergency harnesses can be made of tubular webbing. Illustration by Chris Philpot The Gear. Dynema is amazing. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. 3 to 0. The Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS). Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. hlrir yjeu iyafl zdebz wdrss krkitz aupf nnho ypk iwubwnn dxklana hhxvd fnbqap ggpos cwf